Entrepreneur, globetrotter, and watch lover.
Simon Tran.
I am an entrepreneur, editor of the Moonphase.fr website and curator of vintage watches, which I publish on my Instagram page (@moonphase.fr).
It features a selection that I want to be eclectic, with a fairly simple approach: to offer only things that I like and know well.
Looking back, these watches are an extension of the little stories I used to tell on my website. People often say that my watches have their own universe. They also say that my photos are amazing. But I think that what people really appreciate is my kind of unique perspective. As for the photos, they are taken with an iPhone and a €15 projector…
Vintage watches have always been part of my life, with periods of greater or lesser intensity, but I always come back to them with the same enthusiasm.
I don’t consider myself a collector. I don’t feel the desire to own or accumulate. My approach is more like a journey of discovery. As I often say, you can’t claim to know a model without having held it in your hands and, above all, without knowing its history and evolution.
So, I rotate them: I hunt for them, I restore them, I wear them and then I let them go. There is always something new to learn. Then you discover other models and the journey continues…
Over time, I’ve realised that this quest inspires me every day with the same enthusiasm. I’ve decided to make it my sole activity. It’s what I do best. It’s also what makes me happy.
Mido Rainbow Diver, ref. 5907.
I have the first edition of your Moonwatch Only. The book is full of annotations, some pages are torn and stained, but I still use it every day. Nothing in it is set in stone. And that’s where your ONLY approach is so great: it’s the only valid one because it’s based on empirical and statistical observation.
Anthony and Grégoire’s books are benchmarks. They don’t just tell us about the value or rarity of a watch. Beyond the authenticity of the watches, these books reveal information about their integrity and overall consistency. And that is ultimately what matters most to collectors. Everyone will find accurate information in this book to truly appreciate what they have in their hands. And then only personal judgement will ultimately guide their choice.
The upcoming release of SEAMASTER ONLY has been long awaited, and this book will put things back to their proper perspective. We expect some wonderful surprises and revelations, as always.
Moonwatch Only book.
I don’t consider myself an expert; there are highly qualified people who have done a tremendous amount of work on the subject.
I am simply focusing on its history, which everyone now knows. According to Adam (@hamblar on Instagram), there are more than 1,000 different models! Its history recounts the epic story of civil aviation and also that of the Swiss watchmaking industry. The rise and fall, until it disappeared in the early 1970s.
There is (finally) a real hype among the general public for this watch, and this is totally logical. This is not a bubble or a fad like so many others in the market. Prices have obviously risen, but in my opinion, we are still a long way off. We are talking about an elegant watch that is over 70 years old, designed by an illustrious designer – Gerald Genta – and produced by a brand that was at the forefront of the best in its field at the time. What brand today can boast of offering a micro-rotor in a mass-market sports watch? I often compare Universal Genève to utopians. They were daring and wanted to offer the best, regardless of the cost. The products were constantly evolving. Then they went off in all directions, until they lost their way in the crisis that decimated the industry in the 1970s.
The project to relaunch the brand is ambitious, because beyond the products, it is also the spirit of Universal Genève that needs to be revived…
Part of Simon’s Polerouters collection.
The vintage market has been mature for some time now.
Knowledge is everywhere, and information circulates very quickly too. Unlike the second-hand market, the vintage market has long since ceased to be replenished. Beautiful pieces are becoming rare and are less and less available for trades. At the same time, many average or even mediocre pieces are stagnating on the market.
The price of beautiful pieces will skyrocket, and there will always be new buyers willing to pay the price. The price of a perfect piece is indisputable, but you still have to be able to recognise it.
A selection of Omega Seamasters.
Many watches have been “my favourite” at some point. Often, it is not the most expensive or the rarest. In the end, my favourite is the one that stays. It has always been there, right in front of me. It is often the one I never sought out, but always found difficult to part with. It’s the one I no longer looked at but always rediscover with the same pleasure. One doesn’t choose his favourite watch. It is the watch who chooses us…
Mine is a tropical Polerouter reference 204503/2. It’s not perfect, but it has “character”, as they say. People often ask me if it’s for sale, and I always reply: “Maybe, but not today…”.
Polerouter reference 204503/2.
Actually there is no specific purpose! It often depends on my desires and discoveries during my travels.
Over time, I’ve realised that everything around me is vintage. From furniture to clothing, guitars and even simple everyday objects. I live surrounded by these objects; my flat has become a museum. Right now, I’m drawn to ancient masks from Japanese Noh theatre. I’m only at the beginning of my journey, but it’s fascinating. These objects are incredibly delicate, and their beauty reflects a centuries-old culture and craftsmanship. I’m what I call “vintage everything” – it’s good for me and good for the planet too.
Example of Japanese Noh mask.
The Shimbashi Building.
I discovered this place recently. Located near the Tokyo Station, stepping inside this building is like stepping back in time. It is frequented only by locals; tourists have not yet discovered it. At the top of an old-fashioned escalator, you will find an arcade with games from the 1980s. In fact, the players who come here are also from that era; it’s a bit like a Proust’s madeleine for them. Lose yourself in the underground passages and you’ll come across a kissaten, one of those “Western-style” cafés with old-fashioned charm that first appeared at the beginning of the last century and disappeared in the 1990s.
In the basement, dozens of tiny izakaya are lined up next to each other. Push open a door and you’ll see salarymen who have come to relax after a long day’s work. The atmosphere, the furniture, the menu, the music, the advertisements: everything is vintage. It’s perfectly weathered. It feels like nothing has changed in 50 years. In fact, izakayas are one of the few public places where you can still smoke without disturbing your neighbour.
The world is changing, every country and every city is evolving so quickly, and modernity is sweeping away entire swathes of life and civilisation. The old world is disappearing in front of us. We must marvel at these places because they will probably be gone tomorrow.
The Shimbashi Building.
